Del Frate

Locals love this upmarket enoteca (wine bar) with its simple wooden tables and high-ceilinged brick-arched rooms. Dishes are designed to complement the extensive wine list, so there's a formidable selection of cheeses (from Sicilian ricotta to Piedmontese robiola) and small bites suitable for vino, alongside a refined menu of starters, salads, fresh pastas and main courses (dinner served from 8pm).