Mirzo Guesthouse

This budget place has five modern rooms set around a small courtyard, with shared bathrooms, new mattresses and constant hot water. The two 'national rooms' feature finely carved wooden ceilings and serve as dorms or family rooms. It's not stylish but it works. Loquacious owner Mirzo, an eccentric historian, likes to play the dutar (two-stringed guitar) and his son Oybek speaks excellent English.