Set in a cavern-like green basement, Little Serow has no phone, no reservations and no sign on the door, and it only seats groups of four or fewer (larger parties will be separated). Despite all this, people line up around the block. What for? Superlative northern Thai cuisine. The single-option menu, consisting of six or so hot-spiced courses, changes weekly.
You might get chicken livers and long peppers, or shrimp paste, eggplant and chilies. Every dish comes with mountains of fresh herbs.