Despite its scary name, the Ethan Stowell–run HTCAW has nothing to do with roasting wild fauna over your campfire. Rather it's poached from a book written by MFK Fisher during wartime rationing about how to make the most of limited ingredients. Though times have changed, Stowell embraces the same philosophy.
The food is simple but creative Italian nosh listed on a single sheet of paper and served in a small den-like restaurant. If they ever invent a culinary genre called 'Pacific Northwest Italian,' HTCAW will be its archetype.
