This is not your nonni's Italian, and actually she might take issue with whether it's Italian at all. Many of the ingredients more commonly appear on Asian menus: a guanciale-wrapped mochi (rice wrapped in cured pork) appetizer or pork spareribs with a Calabrian-style XO (a spicy Chinese seafood sauce). Instead of gnocchi, there's Korean-style rice cakes with pioppini mushrooms, stinging nettles, sherry and pine nuts.
It's as bold as it is toothsome, and less adventurous diners will also find some classic Italian plates. Everything pairs well with sparkling Negronis and Toki whiskey highballs on tap.