Just a handful of tables sit in this fine restaurant, which looks more like a greasy-spoon shack. The exquisitely prepared dishes will soon set you straight, however: there's a changing menu that may include San Francisco–style cioppino (seafood stew) with roasted vegetables, halibut and shrimp Française in a citrus beurre blanc or various housemade pastas. Reservations recommended. Cash only.
Don't miss the Sunday brunch.