Run by celebrated restaurateur Keith McNally, Morandi is a warmly lit space that spills onto the sidewalk in summer. The hubbub of garrulous diners resounds amid brick walls, wide plank floors and rustic chandeliers. Squeeze into a table for the full-meal experience – hand-rolled spaghetti with lemon and Parmesan, meatballs with pine nuts and raisins, and grilled whole sea bream.
You can also grab a seat at the copper-topped bar for wine, well-made cocktails and lighter fare, such as stuffed olives, mixed antipasti and minestrone with pesto.