Named in honor of two 19th-century racing horses, this buzzing bistro leads the charge with competent twists on comfort surf and turf. Request a table in the downstairs wine cellar, the snuggest spot to savor the likes of diver scallops with lobster chupe, haricots verts and blistered tomatoes, or spiced Long Island duck.
Desserts are equally coaxing – this is a place where warm chocolate pudding gets its groove on with marshmallow and whiskey barrel smoke.