In sparkling new-ish digs on the waterfront behind Dubai Hospital, Deira's fish market (part of the Waterfront Market development) may have lost some of its character, but it's lost none of its bustle and bargains. Wriggling lobsters, shrimp the size of small bananas, metre-long kingfish and mountains of blue crab hauled in that morning are a photogenic feast even if you're not buying.
As well as fishy fare, the market includes sections selling local and imported produce, meat, dry goods and dates, spices and perfumes, plus cafes and fast-food-style restaurants. There are also live cooking stations where you can have your freshly flapping purchase prepared to order.
Much of the fish is caught right off the coast of the UAE, especially off Sharjah and Ras Al Khaimah, two emirates just north of Dubai. Shellfish usually comes from neighbouring Oman. It's fun to simply listen to the cacophonous din and to observe the wild haggling between the fishmongers and their customers. Come either early in the morning or in the evening (avoid the afternoon siesta hours), and wear sneakers or other waterproof shoes. If you’re buying, be prepared to haggle, avoid overfished species like hamour and kingfish, and ask to have the fish cleaned.
