This vast wholesale market, partly open-air, is the exchange point for melons from Jordan, potatoes from Turkey and onions from just about everywhere. A highlight is cruising along 'date alley', where shops sell around 45 varieties (from Dhs25 per kilogram). Giant Medjool dates from Saudi Arabia cost Dhs70 to Dhs120 per kilogram, while medicinal Ajwa dates fetch Dhs120 per kilogram.
The friendly vendors (from India mostly) are happy to let you sample, but it's polite to leave with a small purchase. Try the plump, yellow sucri dates, which are prized for their sweetness. If you buy fresh dates, choose half-ripe ones for the bittersweet contrast, and eat within a couple of days. Dried dates last a lifetime (well, almost!).