Kupol

One of the pretourism ‘originals’, this place is designed to feel like stepping back in time – to 1938 in particular, ‘the year before civilisation ended’ (ie before the Soviets rolled in). The old-world interior with its screechy parquet floors, tasselled curtains, old photos and high Austrian double doors is the perfect setting to enjoy the tasty Polish/Austrian/Ukrainian dishes. It's currently closed for renovation.