Partially renovated and still sporting lots of faded yesteryear chic, this epicentral hotel remains a travellers' favourite. A prime candidate for a showstopping five-star establishment, this gorgeous 1901 art nouveau gem has instead a mix of rooms, from threadbare bathroom-less tourist class to fairly luxurious suites. High-ceilinged period style and creaky parquet floors exist throughout though some have been victims of crass remont.
However, communal spaces remain grandly untouched, the English-speaking staff are great and the buffet breakfast is still served in the amazing Oriental-style restaurant.