Enthusiastic locals don't believe you've really been to Trabzon till you've eaten Akçaabat köfte (local meat patties) on Cemilusta's jam-packed meydan terrace. The cafe also offers excellent lamb chops, lahana sarma (stuffed cabbage rolls), kuymak (cheese-heavy 'polenta') and fresh fish. Picture menus are helpful.
The building is an artfully modernised three-storey stone mansion with a modernist take on wagon-wheel chandeliers.