Bringing a rustic, country-kitchen vibe to a formerly bland shop space, Hanımeli specialises in home-style cooking influenced by the broader Caucasian region. Georgian wine is available, both commercially bottled and 'homemade' (₺20 a glass). If you're lucky, the owner may pull out his accordion and sing a song.
Dishes include Azerbaijan-style piti (meat and chickpea dish that's eaten by soaking the excess juice in bread then grinding the solids into a paste, ₺35), revan köfte (Armenian-style steamed meatballs, ₺25), a silky smooth pasta soup called erişte aşi (₺7) and ravioli-like hangel (₺20) There's a ₺80 roast goose set, delicious Kars honey for sale, and a refreshing local herbal soft drink called reyhane.