Hanımeli Kapadokya Restaurant

Set on the Karagöz family's rooftop, this friendly place rustles up hearty home-cooking feasts. Local mezes are followed by your choice of wholesome mains – have the testı kebap (meat, chicken or vegetables cooked in a terracotta pot); it's particularly good here. If you manage to demolish that lot, you're doing better than we did and there's still dessert to go.