Nestled between gardens and a shaded terrace with hammocks, this delightful pension has rooms and wooden cabins decorated with folk art and kilims (flatweave rugs), plus a real hamam. The two brothers who run the place, Mithat and Oktay Serçin, are affable hosts, lead tours and are fonts of information. Mum's cooking is legendary.
If you're looking for an even more rustic village experience, stay at one of the three beamed village houses up the hill that sleep two to four people. One of them dates back 130 years, but they have all the mod-cons including up-to-date kitchens and bathrooms. Agora rents bicycles for ₺20 a day.