Haller Gençlik Merkezi'nde

Cafes in this restored 1930s building serve caffeinated sustenance along with mantı (Turkish ravioli) and kumpir (baked potatoes). With exposed brick walls, Cafe Forester offers coffees and teas from around the world – and damn fine cheesecake – and from Wednesday to Friday there's usually live music at rambunctious SPR Pub. Check the signs outside for everything from Turkish rock to touring UK reggae bands.