Forget the medina's expensive tourist restaurants – the food is better at this tiny and unassuming place, which is packed with shopkeepers every lunchtime. Dishes change every day and may include kofta, cheese soufflé, roast chicken and grilled tuna. The soup of the day (2.5DT) is always delicious. It's operated by the posher but much less enjoyable Dar Belhadj. No alcohol.