Most visitors don't stay in El Haouaria long, but Villa Zembra is an enchanting retreat that's worth unpacking your suitcase for. Its five rooms are decked out in traditional Tunisian colours and textiles, and some open onto a peaceful inner courtyard with a burbling fountain, or have a private terrace with unbeatable views of the Med. The pool overlooks the villa's namesake island.
It's worth booking dinner here: you're unlikely to dine on immaculate nouvelle-cuisine-style dishes anywhere else in the region, nor are there many good restaurants around here anyway.