Ban Mai

Dinner at this local favourite is what a meal at your grandparents’ place might be like: opinionated conversation, frumpy furniture and an overfed cat that appears to rule the dining room. Standout dishes include gaang pèt bèt yâhng (grilled duck curry) and yam đà krái (herbal lemongrass salad). There's no Roman-script sign; look for the yellow compound across from Ayara Grand Palace hotel.