The delightful Mangrove Lodge is owned by a Zanzibari-Italian couple; their gentle style imbues the whole place, from the palm-thatched lounge overlooking the bay to the spacious bungalow rooms in the lush garden. The lodge is at Chuini, about 15km from Stone Town, so it's an ideal place to come to relax after a few days of arduous historical sightseeing.
The lodge is heavily invested in the locale; staff come from Chuini village, where the lodge funds a dispensary. Using these neighbourly contacts, the lodge can set you up with village visits, traditional craft workshops, walks and bike rides to nearby spice plantations, and fishing trips with local fishers. Or you can just stroll hassle-free in the surrounding fields. If you fancy a dip, it's a very short walk from the lodge to Chuini Beach (also known as Mawimbini Beach).
Near the lodge is Chuini Bay and the ruins of Chuini Palace, where Sultan Barghash once spent his weekends.
To get here, follow the main road north (via Bububu) for about 12km to reach Chuini village, then turn left (look for the Mangrove Lodge sign) and follow sandy tracks through the farmland for another 3km. If you book ahead, transfers can be arranged; to/from town is US$20.