Sary Mazar Complex, Istaravshan.

© AlexelA/Shutterstock

Sary Mazar

Tajikistan


Shaded by ancient chinar (plane) trees, a pair of small but ornately stucco-fronted 17th-century tombs are set beside a fine old mosque with tapering wooden columns. A set of 18 tiny windowless cells known as chehlkhona here would have been used for meditation by those studying the Koran in order to become religious leaders. Generally the sequestration would last 40 days, during which time the pilgrim would leave the cell only briefly at night to attend to bodily functions.

From the bazaar take marshrutka 3A, get off 300m beyond the cross-sabres gateway, walk along Ehsan (15 minutes), then ask!


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