Mirrorlike lake Bulun-Kul (3737m) looks magnificent in the morning light, reflecting the mineral streaks of a low, multicoloured ridge opposite. The water's edge invites a picnic but the bitter wind and tiny fire ants, which make a beeline for uncovered skin, mean it's better observed on the hoof. Close by, the end-of-the-world settlement of Bulunkul (Булункӯл) – reportedly the coldest place in Tajikistan – offers ways in which to connect with the lakes through horse riding and hikes (enquire at the Monira Homestay).
© NOWAK LUKASZ/Shutterstock
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The road from the Wakhan Valley rejoins the Pamir Hwy via the beautiful Hargus Pass. At 4344m and the highest of the three passes around Alichur, it is…
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