Loud, rustic and fun, #21 offers great food that's very fresh and very Taiwanese. The place gets its name from its two specialities: roasted goose meat and an assortment of fried and stewed fish dishes.
Get here early as seats fill up fast with locals and Japanese tourists. The kung pao chicken (宮保雞丁, gōngbǎo jīdīng) is some of the best around.