This pension has five very ramshackle but spacious bungalows on a little knoll in Hokatu, with sweeping views of Hokatu Bay and Motu Hane. Try to book the bungalow Mata Otemanu – lying on your bed you can see the bay and the motu. Meals are locally sourced and delicious; think: lobster, breadfruit and chicken soup and flambéed bananas for dessert.
The delightful hosts, Maurice, is a master carver (his living room looks like a sculpture museum) and he can teach you some of his techniques, while his wife Delphine (who can get by in English) keeps the whole operation together and also runs the Hokatu crafts centre.