Basking in familial warmth, this pension at the far end of Omoa has an air of Little House on the Prairie. Lionel, who is from Normandy and who is a mine of local information (his English is passable), can take you virtually anywhere on the island, while his Marquesan wife Bernadette is a good cook (dinner from 1500 CFP).
The bungalow with bathroom (hot water) in the manicured garden is comfy and cosy, but if funds are short, the two rooms in the owners’ house are a less expensive alternative (the walls don’t make it to the ceilings, though). Not a bad place to get stuck on Fatu Hiva (fear not, Lionel will help you arrange transport back to Hiva Oa). Transfers to the quay cost 1000 CFP return.