La Cave de Tous Vents

Flickering candles illuminate the brick vaults of this medieval wine bar where couples dine in cosy nooks. Just as gooey is the fondue, including varieties with saffron or chanterelles. Late September to October, its brisolée royale is a magnificent, help-yourself-to-as-much-as-you-can-eat feast of six different Valais cheeses, hot roast chestnuts, apples, pears and dried meats.