Au Quai du Port

If you want to be by the water's edge, this port-side address is top choice. Cuisine is brasserie-simple and crowd-friendly – think burgers, steak tartare etc – and on grotty weather days, Le Quai (as it's known locally) doesn't open until 11am or so. May to September Sunday brunch, served from 10am to 4pm, is the hottest al fresco date around.