One of celebrity chef Mathias Dahlgren's restaurants at the Grand Hôtel (the other is Rutabaga), the bistro-style Matbaren (‘Food Bar’) boasts a Michelin star and an inventive menu of seasonal ingredients. The food is elaborately gorgeous – matjes herring arranged like a still-life, 'Scandinavian sashimi', architectural desserts almost too pretty to eat – but the place never feels overly formal.
Reservations are crucial. Note that it's closed for several weeks in summer (usually July to early August).