La Pilareta

Earthy, century-old and barely changed, La Pilareta is great for hearty tapas and clóchinas (small, juicy local mussels), available between May and August. For the rest of the year it serves mejillones (mussels), altogether fatter if less tasty. A platterful comes in a spicy broth that you scoop up with a spare shell. It's got atmosphere in spades.