Bodega La Venganza

It's impossible not to love this tiny, sassy tapas joint, which expands out to tree-shaded tables on a pretty plaza behind the Iglesia de las Santas Justa y Rufina. It makes a point of procuring excellent seafood – crabs, cockles, tuna, mackerel – and cooks it very well. Check the blackboard for daily specials or go for a tapas degustation.