If you’ve only got time to stop at one bar on Plaza de Santa Ana, let it be this classic cervecería (beer bar), renowned for its cold, frothy beers and a wider selection of Spanish beers than is the norm. It’s fine inside, but snaffle a table outside in the plaza on a summer’s evening and you won’t be giving it up without a fight.
Opened in 1904, this was one of Hemingway’s haunts – neither the wood-lined bar nor the bow-tied waiters have changed much since his day.