The best place to stay in town, friendly, family-run Casa Blasquico has just seven rooms, so it's a good idea to book ahead. With its flower boxes, gables and woody decor, it might have been plucked out of the Swiss Alps. Great breakfasts available too.
It's also home to the excellent Restaurante Gaby, offering expertly prepared, uncomplicated mountain fare: the wild-mushroom crêpes, duck confit and solomillo de ternera (beef tenderloin) are all great, and there's an extensive wine list. Reservations advisable.