Just down the hill from the historic centre, revel in 16th-century surroundings with lofty ceilings, original columns and creaking floors. It's family run (get here early and you will see grandpa peeling potatoes), and the cuisine may not be art-on-a-plate but it's tasty, filling and excellent value with huge portions and market-fresh produce.
This is the place to try such specialities as sopa castellana (garlic soup with bread and a poached egg) – a steal at just €5.