In little Regules village, 10km southwest of Ramales, stands this beautifully restored casa de indianos (mansion built by a returned emigrant from the Americas). It’s in a fantastic, tranquil riverside position: a step further and you’d be in the Río Gándara. Rooms follow a very comfy, multicoloured, modern-rustic design, with exposed stonework and, in most, king-size beds and large hot tubs.
Top-floor pads are attic-style, with sloping wood-beamed ceilings. You can enjoy good Cantabrian cooking in the glassed-in restaurant or on the river-facing terrace (mains €12 to €20). Room rates include a 50-minute spa session and there's massage service too. The efficient owners and management are founts of local knowledge.