The Riojano's high-ceilinged, wood-pillared dining room and bar, adorned with colourfully painted wine barrels, make an atmospheric setting for a fine range of northern Spanish favourites.
Whether you opt for a traditional stew of cachón (cuttlefish), or pochas (Riojan green beans) with squid, or choose a more straightforward beef tenderloin, cod croquettes or Cantabrian cheese platter, it's all good, and the choice of wines is wide.