The twisting, climbing CV147 leads, after about 6km, to this occasionally misty inland range – cooler than the coast – with a Carmelite monastery and first-class restaurant at its heart. Nowadays it's a nature reserve and far from being a desert (for the monks that meant a place for mystic withdrawal), it’s green area perfect for outdoor activities. From Monte Bartolo (728m), its highest point, there are staggering views. The tourist office hands out an excellent booklet listing a range of different hill walks.