El Limpia

A tightly squeezed hubbub of a bar where you place your order then wait for the barman's bellow to tell you it's ready. The papapico (minced pork and potatoes in a spicy mojo picón sauce) is celebrated, but there's plenty more on offer including wild-mushroom risotto, tablas (boards) of ham and/or cheese, or tostadas (topped toast slices) of wild-boar pâté.