Mesón Pepe Julián

Opposite the market, family-run Pepe Julián shines for its wholesome traditional home cooking. It's a hit with local Spaniards, who pack in for the carefully prepped meats, fish, platos combinados (meat- or egg-with-three-veg dishes) and tortillas (try the cheese one), as well as for perfectly simple jamón, cheese and ensaladilla (Russian salad) tapas in the tile-walled bar.