Squeeze into the standing-room-only bar or battle for your terrace table at El Francés, which gives Andalucian classics a subtle twist. Tarifa's favourite tapas bar is a buzzing place, serving patatas bravas and tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) alongside mini chicken-veg couscous or cheese-stuffed mushrooms. No reservations; pop in on the day to secure a table (dinner from 6.30pm only).
Amid the ancient brick arches of a stylishly converted 18th-century grainstore, sister restaurant Silos 19 puts a creative, refined spin on local ingredients.