Oliva

Impeccable service, single orchids, a drum-and-bass soundtrack and a charcoal-grey-and-green colour scheme: in short, this place has class. The menu is reassuringly brief and changes regularly according to what's in season. The inventive dishes combine unlikely ingredients – expect the likes of grapes gelée and thyme ice cream, potatoes in vanilla, and black garlic and aubergine purée. Reservations recommended.