The hub of the Barrio de la Viña fun, with every inch of its walls covered in flamenco, bullfighting and Carnaval paraphernalia, always-busy Casa Manteca is full of old tapas favourites. Ask the chatty waiters for mussels, chicharrones (pressed pork with a squeeze of lemon) or payoyo cheese with asparagus marmalade, and it'll fly across the bar on waxed paper.
Now there's a terrific Manteca freidor (fried fish specialist) opposite.