Views of scattered specks of land from the peaks of Heuksando show why Dadohae Haesang means ‘marine archipelago’. This island, on the way to Hongdo, is the larger, more populated and more accessible of the two. Fishing villages are linked by trails; walking the full circuit around the island takes about nine hours. Fortunately, local buses (₩1200, hourly) circle most of the island – a recommended trip is up the Bonghwa-dae peak, on the north coast hill, Sangnasan.
Cycling is also a fun way to get around; look for shops offering mountain bikes for hire (per day ₩20,000) near the ferry terminal.