A well-guarded secret among long-term visitors, this pert little number in a quiet neighbourhood is a reliable establishment despite being far from the action – it's 5km away from the centre – and up a steep road. The 15 rooms are self-contained, attractively furnished and squeaky clean. Upstairs rooms are more spacious and have balconies and great mountain views.
Tip: angle for room 1, which affords sea views. You'll need a taxi to get here.