Gregor Vračko's restaurant is all wood and floor-to-ceiling window minimalism. Its chic simplicity is a worthy contrast to the food. This is boldly creative fine dining with an added dash of eccentricity, elevating local Styrian produce to the highest level. There's no menu; just allow the chef to decide, settle back and expect a three-to-five hour dining extravaganza.
Bookings are essential. The restaurant is in the village of Zgornja Kungota, 15km north of Maribor. Rather than having to drive after dinner (there's an exceptional wine list) many foodies choose to make this an overnight trip. Luckily Hiša Denk also has a few rooms (€65 to €75), kitted out in the same simple modern style as the restaurant, so all you have to do after your dining blow-out is crawl upstairs to bed.