Gloopily thick hot chocolate, and a counter piled with cookies and cheesecakes, are excellent reasons to idle in vaulted Cafe Gavalier, which is tucked into a 16th-century Renaissance house. Hipster regalia from neon pug dogs to mock-antique chairs freshen the atmosphere, making it as popular with Instagramming locals as tourists.
Gavalier also has accommodation (doubles from €80) in rooms elegant and contemporary in style but retaining the building's original arches.