Le Djembé

A block west of Pl de l'Indépendance, this inviting, colourful eatery is the whispered insider-tip for anyone in search of a filling platter of thiéboudienne (rice baked in a thick sauce of fish and vegetables). There's also poulet yassa (grilled chicken in onion and lemon sauce), bissap juice (a purple drink made from water and hibiscus leaves), lively music and a good mix of locals and expats.