Lerona

Guests come first here, but the wee folk – a battalion of garden gnomes and clans of dolls with lifelike stares – are close behind. Some of the good-sized rooms have en suites, and friendly owners give an easygoing welcome. Rates are cheaper if you stay more than one night. Cromwell Crescent is off the waterfront road just east of the Kirkwall's centre. No wi-fi.