Located in two colourful waterfront shacks on a swampy peninsula, this is an excellent stop for creative seafood, above and beyond the normal plates of fried fish and banana chips found elsewhere. The only drawback is the flies. Reserve ahead weekends.
Signed just south of São João dos Angolares. Basic concrete accommodations with odiferous shared bath (d €25) are also available. Choose the exceptional top room for balcony and light.