You have reached the end of the road. And that is why you are here. Compared to São Tomé's other ecolodges, Jalé is primitive, with three bungalows, a small restaurant, minimal staff and few activities. What it does have is a long, empty, roaring palm-fringed beach. This is where you come to escape the Feds. Or to see nesting turtles (September to April).
The lodge is run by marine conservation NGO Marapa. Creature comforts are low – hot water only comes upon request, delivered in a bucket, and electricity is only on 5pm to 9pm – but the food is surprisingly good (€10–12 per meal), and the constant sound of the surf is like a voice from the end of the Earth. Just listen to what it is saying: 'The currents are very dangerous!'